Made in the Shade

The two questions we hear most often from home gardeners are “what grows in the shade?” and “what won’t deer eat?” There is a great answer to both questions: ferns!

We have an amazing variety of native ferns in the northern US. There are ferns for wet or dry shady areas, ferns that grow tall and ferns that stay short, ferns that form tidy well-behaved clumps, and ferns that run wild, filling in large areas for groundcover or erosion control. Some ferns are happy in deep shade, and others like more sun than you might expect. Ferns can be dramatic accents in the garden, or create soothing, naturalistic vistas. And all of them are ignored by deer, rabbits, and woodchucks.

Ferns are ancient. Fossils more than 220 million years old have been found of the very same fern species that grow in our forests and gardens today. Apparently, dinosaurs didn’t eat ferns either! Here are a few of our favorite ferns for home gardens:

Cinnamon Fern

For drama, use Cinnamon Fern (Osmunda cinnamomea). Named for the tall cinnamon-colored stalk that rises out of its center, Cinnamon Fern can be a focal point in the garden. It grows 3 to 5 feet tall, with lush fronds extending just as wide, and almost has the tropical look of a palm. It does well in shade, but as long as the ground is damp, it will get even bigger with more sun. In early spring, it looks positively alien as it emerges from the ground covered with fuzzy hairs that disappear as the fronds unfurl. In the fall, Cinnamon Fern turns bright yellow before going dormant for the winter.

Cinnamon Fern emerging in early spring

For a front-of-the-border charmer, use Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina). Forming well-behaved clumps with an airy grace, Lady Fern does well in part-shade and even moisture. A cultivar called “Lady-in-Red” has deep red stems that contrast with its fresh green fronds. It will grow 2 to 3 feet tall and wide, and will stay politely where you put it.

Lady Fern with Rhododendron
Athyrium filix-femina “Lady-in-Red”

If you want to cover a lot of terrain, and collect a bonus edible veggie, Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris var. pensylvanica) is the way to go. With adequate moisture, Ostrich Fern will grow 3 to 5 feet tall in shade or sun, and spread itself aggressively. It grows in defined clumps, but sends out runners that form new clumps in time. It can be controlled easily enough by severing the runners and digging out the new plants — or by eating them! Fiddlehead ferns are delicious. They should be harvested in early spring when the ferns are just emerging from the ground and getting ready to unfurl. Cut the emerging fiddleheads with a bit of the green stem. Wash them and peel off any papery covering. They are great steamed, or sauteed in a little butter with salt, pepper, and a bit of garlic.

Ostrich Fern makes a gorgeous groundcover
Fiddleheads from Ostrich Ferns are delicious!

Another garden favorite is Maidenhair Fern (Adiantum pedatum). The unusual circular fronds sit on top of a slender stem (petiole), about 18 inches tall, with fluffy “feathers” arranged around the circle. They are much tougher than they look and combine well with other shade plants. In rich, moist soil, they can take quite a bit of sun without wilting. Their lacy texture is beautiful contrasting with broad-leaf plants like Wild Ginger, Coral Bells, or Rhododendron.

Maidenhair Fern with Wild Ginger

One of the most ancient ferns is also one of the most interesting. Interrupted Fern (Osmunda claytoniana) sends up stalks with fresh green leaves, then appears to change its mind as the stalk develops curly brown “flowers” in the middle, then changes its mind again and continues with green. These “interrupted” stalks are the fertile spore-bearing part of the fern. Once the spores mature and drop, the fronds arch gracefully, up to 4 feet high, for the rest of the summer. Clumps of Interrupted Fern will expand very slowly over the years providing a strong architectural feature to the garden.

Interrupted Fern bearing its spores in mid-stem
A 30-year-old stand of Interrupted Fern stays fresh and vertical all summer

Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) has the great virtue of being evergreen. It does well in dry shade, and needs no care at all. You can find it easily while walking in northern woods in the winter time, and it makes a great evergreen groundcover under trees and shrubs in the home garden. It stays low, under 2 feet typically, and spreads only very slowly. But if planted densely, it makes an attractive year-round groundcover.

Christmas Ferns planted at the Nature Center
December in the Nature Center’s forest

All of these native ferns are hardy to Zone 3 and need very little care. They are woodland plants, so they like soil naturally enriched with fallen leaves and decayed plant matter. Try a few in those troublesome, shady and deer-browsed spots. Or plant a whole fern garden and try them all!

Fern garden in spring: (clockwise from upper left) Cinnamon Fern, Interrupted Fern, Christmas Fern, Maidenhair Fern
THIS BLOG IS WRITTEN BY CATHY LUDDEN, CONSERVATIONIST AND NATIVE PLANT EDUCATOR; AND BOARD MEMBER, GREENBURGH NATURE CENTER. FOLLOW CATHY ON INSTAGRAM FOR MORE PHOTOS AND GARDENING TIPS @CATHYLUDDEN.

Ready, Set, Shop!

Are you thinking about what to plant in your garden this year? Nurseries are already displaying their new stock, and native plant sales are popping up everywhere. It’s time to make your shopping list for spring planting. And we can help!

Over the past few seasons, “Around the Grounds” has recommended some great native perennials that will bring life to your garden. Here are some of our favorite flowering plants — with links to blog posts containing photos and tons of information about each of them:

For Sunny Gardens

Sneezeweed (Helenium autumnale) – late bloomer, hot colors

Goldenrod (Solidago spp.) – fall bloomer, essential for pollinators

Milkweed (Asclepius spp.) – long bloom time, critical for Monarchs

Golden Alexander (Zizia aurea or aptera) – blooms early and long

Blue False Indigo (Baptisia australis) – long-lived, shrub-like spring bloomer

Mountain Mint (Pycnanthemum spp.) – fragrant long bloomer

Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium spp.) – tall butterfly magnet

Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum) – long-blooming butterfly favorite

White Turtlehead (Chelone glabra) – late blooming bumblebee favorite

Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis) – red spikes for hummingbirds

Coral Bells (Heuchera villosa ‘Autumn Bride’) – deer-resistant hosta substitute

Bluestar (Amsonia tabernaemontana) – shrub-like, blooms early

For Shady Gardens

Native Bleeding Heart (Dicentra eximia) – long bloomer, hardy

Goatsbeard (Aruncus dioicus) – large, showy white flowers

Pink Turtlehead (Chelone lyonii) – shrub-like with pink flowers

Wild ginger (Asarum canadensis) – low ground cover, hidden flowers

Golden groundsel (Packera aurea) – shade/sun flowering groundcover

Creeping Sedge (Carex laxiculmus) – clumping grass that stays blue all winter

Violets (Viola sororia) – early flowering groundcover

All of these plants evolved in our region, are well-adapted to our soil and weather, and support native insect and bird populations. Many are deer-resistant and drought-tolerant. You can learn more about their favorite garden conditions in the linked blog posts.

We’ve also recommended ferns, grasses, shrubs, and trees, so browse older posts by clicking on the “Around the Grounds Collection” button below.

Happy spring shopping! And if you live in the Greenburg, NY area, mark your calendar for our spring plant sale on May 13 where many of these plants will be available.

THIS BLOG IS AUTHORED WEEKLY BY CATHY LUDDEN, CONSERVATIONIST AND NATIVE PLANT EDUCATOR; AND BOARD MEMBER, GREENBURGH NATURE CENTER. FOLLOW CATHY ON INSTAGRAM FOR MORE PHOTOS AND GARDENING TIPS @CATHYLUDDEN.
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What NOT to Plant

Garden catalogue offering an invasive shrub actually prohibited in several states.
English ivy costs American homeowners millions of dollars in tree and building damage every year, but is still sold legally in every state but Oregon.
Invasive vines choke native trees on America’s roadsides.
Invasive landscape plants like Japanese pachysandra take over parks and wooded areas and are difficult to remove.

The simplest way is to use your phone! Put the name of the plant you’re considering and the word “invasive” into Google, or whatever search engine you use, and see what happens! For example, this is the result of a .32-second search using the words “pachysandra” and “invasive”:

The opening page of a Google search.
Catalogue offer using almost all the buzzwords.
A search for “crown vetch invasive” immediately hits Invasive.org and state governments reporting the invasive plant.
Invasive.org report on crown vetch.

If you fell for an ad like this:

Catalogue ad for Aegopodium, also known as bishop’s weed, or goutweed.
Goutweed will break your heart.

THIS BLOG IS WRITTEN BY CATHY LUDDEN, CONSERVATIONIST AND NATIVE PLANT EDUCATOR; AND BOARD MEMBER, GREENBURGH NATURE CENTER. FOLLOW CATHY ON INSTAGRAM FOR MORE PHOTOS AND GARDENING TIPS @CATHYLUDDEN.

Soggy Solutions

Do you have a soggy situation in your yard: a low spot where water always puddles for a few days before drying up? If so, lucky you! You’ve got the perfect spot for some beautiful water-loving shrubs!

Rainstorms are becoming more frequent and more intense. Suburban lawns often have mushy patches that don’t really recover, even after the ground dries. Turf grass roots sitting in standing water are deprived of oxygen and soon die. You could spend hours – and dollars — aerating, re-seeding, or laying new sod only to see the same thing happen again in the next downpour.

Lawn grass can’t live in water-logged soil

Or, you could plant a few native shrubs that would be happy to soak up that water! Some of our most desirable native plants evolved near ponds, streams, and in wet meadows. They can live in standing water for days at a time, and take up excess water that otherwise becomes mosquito-breeding habitat. Even better, because they are native to our region, they are winter-hardy and provide food for pollinators and birds.

It’s not hard to remedy a soggy area of lawn. You can plant right into the wet areas, even without removing any surviving lawn first. With the right plants, not much soil amendment is necessary, either. Dig a hole about the same depth and twice the circumference of the root ball of the shrub. Loosen the root ball if it is very tightly bound. Adding a few shovel fulls of compost and mixing it with the soil in the planting hole can help. But don’t plant too deep. Keep the crown of the plant just above the soil line. And give your new plant some company! More plants take up more water, reduce compaction, and improve soil drainage, which improves survival odds for all of the plants.

Assuming the spot is mostly sunny, and usually dries out a few days after a rainstorm, any of these great shrubs will work beautifully:

Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis)
Buttonbush produces really interesting flowers from early to mid-summer that last for weeks. The flowers look like 1½-inch white spheres and attract hummingbirds and butterflies. The leaves are large, glossy green, and make a gorgeous background for the flowers. After the flowers fade, hard spherical nuts resembling buttons develop and often last through the winter until birds harvest them.

Buttonbush flowers
Photo: Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center

Native to swamps and streamsides from Canada to Florida and west to the Mississippi River, Buttonbush is hardy in Zones 4 to 10. In the Northeast, the shrub can reach 6 to 12 feet tall and 4 to 8 feet wide. In colder zones, the shrub may die back to the ground in winter and grow back to 3 to 4 feet in summer. Pruning is not necessary, but if you want to keep it a bit smaller, it won’t mind being pruned in early spring since the flowers form on new growth.

Buttonbush becomes a large rounded shrub in suburban landscapes
Photo: American Beauties Native Plants

Buttonbush loves wet soil, including areas that are often flooded with shallow standing water. It is generally deer-resistant once established, but young plants should be protected in the first few years. The shrub is happy in full sun or part shade.

Possumhaw viburnum (Viburnum nudum)
Also called Smooth Witherod, this shrub is one of our most attractive native plants for suburban landscapes. It will tolerate wet, boggy soil, though it does perfectly well in average soil as well, and is a great foundation plant. Native to woodlands, swamps, and thickets from Newfoundland to Florida, it grows 6 to 12 feet tall and 4 to 15 feet wide. It has shiny green leaves, big lacy white flowers in spring, and berries that turn colors from pink to blue to black. It also has spectacular fall leaf color. Possumhaw doesn’t need pruning and is not particularly attractive to deer. This plant works in almost any yard, but it is an ideal solution for a wet area.

Viburnum nudum as a foundation plant at the Nature Center
Possumhaw berries change colors as
they ripen
Vibrant fall color and berries

Winterberry (Ilex verticillata)
It’s hard to imagine a more useful landscape plant than Winterberry. It can live in standing water, but is also fine in average landscape conditions. It produces brilliant red berries in the fall that feed migrating birds.

This popular shrub is great in wet soil
Robins, mockingbirds, blue jays, cardinals, and cedar
waxwings flock to Winterberries

Pussy Willow (Salix discolor).
Willows are wetland plants, and our native Pussy Willow is the most beloved of the bunch. As a multi-trunked shrub or small tree, 6 to 15 feet tall, Pussy Willow makes a great focal point where water collects. Plant it, then add two or three of the shrubs described above, and a formerly soggy mess will become your favorite part of the yard! For more information on this great little tree, read our earlier blog post here.

Pussy Willow (Salix discolor) is an easy-to-love small tree
Fuzzy catkins show up in early spring and feed emerging pollinators

So, as you start dreaming about spring flowers, don’t forget about spring “showers,” which are more likely to be torrential downpours these days. Plan ahead for standing water and add some of these water-loving plants to your spring shopping list!

THIS BLOG IS WRITTEN BY CATHY LUDDEN, CONSERVATIONIST AND NATIVE PLANT EDUCATOR; AND BOARD MEMBER, GREENBURGH NATURE CENTER. FOLLOW CATHY ON INSTAGRAM FOR MORE PHOTOS AND GARDENING TIPS @CATHYLUDDEN.

How Cold Is It Outside?

How cold is it outside? Let’s check the Rhododendron to find out….

Not too bad — definitely above freezing:

Leaves are flat and parallel to the ground.

Now it’s around freezing:

Leaves are still open, but drooping.

Oh, it’s colder now, around 25 degrees:

Leaves begin curling.

Yikes! It’s really cold now, 20 degrees or colder:

Leaves are curled up as tight as cinnamon sticks!

The Rhododendron is surprisingly accurate as a cold weather thermometer. Its leaf-rolling trick protects the leaves from damage due to rapid freeze and thaw cycles by reducing surface area. This defense helps it thrive as an evergreen.

The genus Rhododendron is ancient. Fossils of Rhododendrons over 50 million years old have been found in Alaska. The name is Greek from rhodos meaning rose and dendron meaning tree. There are over 1,000 species of the “rose tree” on Earth, ninety percent of them found in Eurasia. There are tens of thousands of hybrids and cultivars. 

In the US, there are only 27 native species of Rhododendron, and most of them we know as azaleas. Azaleas are part of the same genus, but their flowers have 5 stamens rather than 10, and virtually all of our native azaleas are deciduous, dropping their leaves in the fall.

The evergreen Rhododendron is an iconic shrub in the Eastern US. It is hard to imagine our landscape without it. Its big shiny leaves and glorious flower clusters in late spring make it a year-round favorite. The two native evergreen “rhodies” in our region are Catawba (Rhododendron catawbiense) and Rosebay or Great Laurel (Rhododendron maximum). While Catawba’s native range is further south, in southern Appalachia and the Piedmont, Rosebay dominates the northern territory from eastern Maine all the way to Georgia. Both do well in rich acidic soil and moist woodlands. Catawba is the one we see most often in our suburban landscapes, either in its native form with pinkish-purple flowers, or hybrids like ‘Roseum Elegans’ and ‘English Roseum.’ The big showy flowers we see in mid-spring in a range of colors from pale pink to hot fuchsia usually are Catawba hybrids. Rosebay Rhododendron, with larger, slightly floppy leaves, and pinkish-white flowers, grows taller and blooms a few weeks later.

Both shrubs make great privacy screens. Left to their own devices in the wild, both Catawba and Rosebay can form massive, impenetrable thickets that shade out competing plants, including trees. In the Appalachians, Rhododendron thickets viewed from a distance are so dense and treeless that they appear smooth. Locals call them Rhododendron “slicks” or “balds” because they look almost like lawns on distant hills. Up close, the reality has earned them the name “rhododendron hells.” 

The Nature Center’s Native American long-house is partially hidden by a Rhododendron thicket

On the other hand, birds do love a thicket! A big Rhododendron close to the house will give you a bird-watching site all year around.

A red-bellied woodpecker pokes around in the Rhododendron

Rhododendron is known to be toxic to horses, sheep, and other grazing animals. So, it is a mystery how deer manage to strip leaves within their reach. No doubt they prefer other food, but they seem to know just how much Rhododendron they can eat without ill effects; and they may do that.

But on those bitter cold days when the rhodie leaves curl up just as tight as they can, it helps to have a warm drink, and think about what that shrub is planning for you for spring.

Catawba rhododendron in late May. Sigh.

This blog is written by Cathy Ludden, conservationist and native plant educator; and Board Member, Greenburgh Nature Center. Follow Cathy on Instagram for more photos and gardening tips @cathyludden.